The light is just a feint orange glow rising over the Asian side of Istanbul. The orangey flow is reflecting slightly in the Bosporus – so the river looks golden.
Today I have witnessed some amazing respect from a young lad about seven who ran up to a middle age man and grabbed his hand, kissed it and raised it to his forehead. The man stooped and kissed the lad on each cheek. The boy did this with the next man and the same process followed, eventually leading the age old fashion of rubbing the lad’s hair.
They say that the two Mosques in the Sultanahmet are competing with each other and as the light increases over the Haghia Sophia it’s evident that the light hits the Blue Mosque and at this time of the day it’s the clear winner.
The Mosque is fully lit and the blues of the tiles and marble strikes out. There isn’t a sole about apart from the road sweepers and dustcarts.
All the guidebooks claim that the Sophia is the greatest of the two as it was originally the Basilica that Julian the Roman built when he named the city Constantinople, but still the Blue Mosque is out in front on the best looks stakes but that may change as the sun comes up.
A few coaches have arrived with early visitors now, mainly Italians with their leader reminiscent of an old scout leader with his Baden Powell hat and booming voice, just assuming that Baden Powell had a booming voice.
The old Askazar Bazaar is completely devoid of any activity. Here I can browse the shop windows without being introduced to the wares, cousins, uncles and ‘please sir share some tea with me – no obligation’ I’m just such a good salesman I will sell you a £1000 carpet as you need it. Maybe the Turks and the Egyptians compete on the selling. To date I’d say that the Egyptians are better. The bazaar is built along one side of the Blue Mosque complex and runs in a light sweeping arc with wooden frontages and a built in wooden shade – it’s slightly reminiscent of the small bazaar in Mostar. Haven’t spotted any snowies but maybe these are yet to come – although there is a plethora of shawls, fridge magnets and the Seeing Eye.
There is still a semi white light but the orangey tint has gone as I head back to the old Galata bridge.
Here a few ferries are now disgorging their passengers where they quickly fan out into the city. These ferries hardly get time to dock and apart from a single seaman holding the rope that’s what you call berthed. The passengers are over the running boards and charging.
Along the bridge either side of the central span as that’s where the passenger ferries come in there are numerous fishermen. Some very successful, others looking like they could go hungry again. The experienced or lucky ones seem to catch three fish on what looks like staggered hooks.
The tiny worms they use held in little plastic glasses at their feet sit immobile almost like these fishermen – so calm. Andy Cap cigarette in mouth and a semi laze across the railings they are all hoping for the big one. The fish they catch are kept in plastic buckets where they look like they die almost immediately.
After a further relax back at the hotel I get out at midday and walk over to Taksin Square and down the pedestrian street which literally runs all the way to the bridge.
There is some sort of demonstration taking place, as there are hordes of riot police all helmeted and shields ready, but they must outnumber the protestors 3:1. No chance of any action kicking off then.
Through a number of side streets heading to the river I come across the tower by accident. Still not sure of its purpose apart from a watch tower as there are no battlements. It’s probably about 20ft. in radius. It doesn’t taper, just straight up like conical funnel with a round-pitched roof. Daunting climb ahead but voila there are lifts installed. Although they go up to the 8th floor you still have to walk up a strange tight spiral staircase. This brings you out to a restaurant where there is an event with Japanese people. Past the kitchen area and out onto the balcony that surrounds the tower. It’s barely wide enough for two people to cross. They need to set up a one-way system!! The views are amazing and literally as far as the eye can see. Over to Asia you can see part of the castle, up to the Bosporus to the bridge. There are massive container ships moving through and hundreds of other vessels plying between the mainland and the islands. Out on the horizon beyond the Topkapi Palace the Marmara Sea is covered in mist. The three mosques of the old quarter are magnificent and although they may look like boils sticking head up out of the surrounding buildings they are the beacons that draw the eye. Now I have mastered the tram and it’s tokens which you buy from the ticket office by the tram stop, more like quarter of a portakabin.
This tram is very new and only been going for about a year so the current Dorling Kingsley guidebook is out of date as well as the restaurant in the hotel, having closed about 2 years ago.
If you can get a high speed tram this is it and it gets up to Sultanahmet for 1.10 TYL, about 40 pence.
I was expecting crowds by the mosques for my second visit of the day, but this is incredible, with wall to wall people sitting on benches and steps, lying on the grass and wandering. I also have to admit that the sun in a different location does shed better light on the Sophia Hagie – its almost rose coloured. That’s the other thing, there are masses of tulips and flowerbeds and they are pristine, with no one picking or damaging them.
Later the blue mosque, as that is my favourite so far. This is a proper working mosque that closes at prayer time for visitors. It is cavernous with light flooding in through the ornate glass windows. Still the fairy strings of lights exist across the area. There is worship as well which surprises me.
The Sophia is a Unesco heritage site so worship doesn’t look plausible, not with the numbers of people going in. Inside, wham, it’s full of scaffolding – actually made me laugh inside not through being evil but just irony.
It’s been a great day so far so must cap it all and get to the grand bazaar. The books describe it as a huge area and easily can you get lost only from going in one door and never finding the same exit. Gold, jewellery, souvenirs, cloth, clothes, leather bags but no foods or spices – this is a real tourist bazaar. Strangely they are not as pushy as the Egyptians but maybe when they say “carpets” and I answer that I have a carpet shop in England they seem to stop – neat trick. The bazaar is made up of a labyrinth of alleys, some wider, some narrow, some incline, some decline, but all are lit by a mix of natural light from the side windows in the Cupolas and Howescerts. The most outstanding shops are those with the glass coloured lanterns, which emit volumes of coloured light.
Eventually exiting after careful negotiations for a consignment of Turkish delight I find myself right by the tram stop Beyznt. This is partially a terminus so the platform I am on is going to be sheer chance if it gets me back. Luck is a lady and she’s on my side as the tram is heading in my direction to Mirnar which is a short walk up the hill to the hotel.
Short walk, it’s like a bloody expedition walking along the Bosporus road until I get to the hill up to the hotel. It’s an incline and takes a good hour from getting off the tram till I reach the luxury of a bath. Bath, food and sleep, that’s it for today.