With a very detailed itinerary planned I am going back into the western Hajar mountains and this time stopping off overnight outside Nizwa. The aim is to visit the old fortified villages up through the Sumail Pass and then onto Bahla after attempting to get up onto Jebel Shams. Pack a jumper its going to get cooler certainly up high at the top of the highest point in Oman.
Again out of Muscat turn left and then left again inland; that’s the simple directions but you can only need to see a map and realise how simple it really is. The first stop is Fanja.
After a couple attempts of driving up dead ends with little space to turn I pack up and walk up through some ruins. There are three guys mending a roof on a property, they smile and step aside. They are mending a roof from the inside. The ruins are built up on to the highest point near this Wadi and open out to a view of the Wadi, where there are a couple of old Portuguese cannons placed on display, although all around is a complete ruin.
There are great views across the palm dates and the new town. The scale of repair or renovation doesn’t bear thinking about, although in some parts the process has started. The oval tower at the top of the point has been fully renovated, likewise the fort at Bidbid which is again at the junction of a Wadi. This town is famous for it’s dates and an old Falaj network. This being infrastructure of irrigation of the groves and small arable lots.
I am attempting to find ruins or forts in about 6 villages today, which are marked on the map with a dot by the main highway. There is no other indication – apart from using the guide book and following it’s instructions to the letter. The main issue I have is that since the books were published there is now a steaming great highway but it adds to the adventure.
At Sumail the town is the middle of the pass. I have to attempt to find the old fort and the ruins of the souq. Through the main town, most are one road towns through the centre, which is clogged with traffic, I chance upon a driving school. The cars are like zebras with red and white chevrons across their rears. Most of those taking their tests are women.
The road is well maintained going through the Wadi, with stone tracks off to either side. Each of them lead to small clusters of homes surrounded by palm groves.
Off to the right is a sign reading something Souq, so I turn off and park up; walking through the alleys, climbing up I chance upon a small gap and through that is the fort. Finding these places is more luck than chance, as they are impossible to find sometimes. The old fort is being renovated and is surely the largest project to be undertaken that I have seen so far.
Below the fort are groves of palm dates, all irrigated with a complex falaj. These date back to the Persians who developed the process. Where the water is from one source its generally managed by a keeper who directs the water at certain times into different channels.
Further up the road I am looking for Manal which isn’t on the map, or the main guide book, but I recollect it was mentioned in an article in a local magazine.
Manal turns out to be a small village off a side road with no access apart from walking. By the road are a few cars being fixed by a small crew of locals. They look up as I park then carry on with their repairs.
Walking up between the date palms I am joined by 3 small kids who disperse when 2 older, late teens appear and welcome me.
Manal is a little odd as you can’t get cars into this village, which is set off to the left and raised about the groves of palm dates. The two lads, one I think is named Saleen and I can’t catch the other as its unfamiliar, lead me higher in the village towards a flat area where the Mosque is situated. One has to remember that all the mosques have a sense of pride to the local villagers, as they would have contributed in some way or another. Where disasters happen the just thing is to rebuild the mosque. It’s quite plain from the outside and the inner part is relatively small with enough space for perhaps 50 during prayer time. The ablution area is served by a huge cast iron tank with a huge leak, as there’s a hole about the size of a tennis ball. So much for preserving water. The leak does feed into a small Falajah which waters the trees and plants of the mosque.
From the mosque we traverse around a hillock to where the ruins of the village are. On top of the hill is a small watchtower overlooking these ruins; it seems intact but no matter how they persist I’m not climbing up there.
We then get a very strange rendition from the two of them shooting at the tower and then emulating with their hands a big explosion. My first interpretation is maybe an earthquake or a tribal attack, but then it dawns on me. They were part of the Jebel War and were shooting at planes who bombed their village. This was all part of the invitation from the old Sultan to put the uprising down and get the RAF to bomb the hill villages. That puts it all in perspective as to why these are ruins and a small cemetery area by the side of the ruins. Apparently eight people were killed, that’s if I can count fingers correctly.
The boys then suggest coffee and invite me into one of their homes. Shoes are removed and I’m shown into a single room just off the front door. It’s painted blue with carpets and rugs throughout and pillows/cushions against the walls. The windows are small and shuttered to stop the heat from encroaching. Even though there is an AC unit and two fans the guys do not put them on. Saneel goes off and in a short while returns with a plate of oranges, dates and coffee.
After ceremoniously washing the fingers I help the two of them demolish some oranges and dates. If a third cup doesn’t get offered you know you’ve outstayed your welcome, so it’s always best to move on after the second – mind you he did offer.
Our combined English and Arabic is about as useful as a one legged man in an arse kicking competition, but we seem to get by.
I make my thanks at the car as they have walked down. I don’t have anything to offer, but that would be poor manners – I was an invited guest of theirs.
Onwards and upwards heading off from Manal I pick up the road to Izki, off behind a massive army base. In the guide book it describes a 150 year old ruined fort but I discover that it’s being renovated and is almost complete.
Sitting back here in Muttrah this evening I’m witnessing the evening parade of young men, some in their smart white dish-dash and others in more western attire, although it seems it must have a sporting theme. The reason they are out is that a steady stream of young women clad in their black bahas is walking the Corniche. In some respects its pointless attire as some have high splits in the dress and then boys are obviously keen to see their legs. It’s all so flirtatious and the girls love it.
Back to old forts then. Izki has nothing going for it apart from being head of a Wadi, which has an immaculate road running up it. The road is fully tarmac with armco barriers and lighting. Intrigued I venture only to discover it’s a military road and there is a check point at the end. They do much military training up on the Sarf plateau.
Through the fort and under the nearby Mosque runs the main Falajah channel and at quite a speed. The channel then diverts into three equally wide channels. Two of these continue round a hillock whilst the third drops four feet to head off into the village behind some stones. That’s where the small waterfall is in Izki.
From here its onto Nizwa which I have seen before but it was a Friday and dead. The markets are closing, apart from the fish market, which is open late due to the fish arriving late from the coast.
I’m staying over tonight in Nizwa so that the drive is not so bad. The Golden Tulip Hotel has only tourists, mainly French and German – but it’s a good base unless you fancy camping.