What a quiet peaceful day with little planned – leisurely day out in Old Muscat or Muttrah.
The Grand Mosque lies down by the main highway. A huge dome and towering minaret are part of the complex. White marble has been used throughout the site and in the main Mosque building is one of the largest carpets ever made, weighing 21 tons. The central hall has a huge Swarvoski crystal chandelier and like all mosques they represent their people. This surely is an impressive representation of Oman and its people.
On the way to Old Muscat I can’t help noticing the numbers of police cars parked up and as I get closer and pass along the Corniche all the parking places have been closed, with patrols of policemen ensuring no one stops. All the way from Muttrah to Old Muscat the parking areas are suspended, with evidence of police or army.
I recognise the Saudi Flag flying alternate to the Oman Flag on all the flag poles lining the route. I remember reading that the Saudi Princes have been in town for the last few days on an official trip. Eventually past Old Muscat and the Royal Palaces I find a spot at Sidab, a small fishing village with no sand apart from where the boats pull up.
The taxi driver explains that they are expecting the Saudis to leave after the midday prayers. Just before 2p.m there’s a scurry of police cars and army vehicles ensuring the parking areas are clear. Then the traffic stops completely, pedestrians not allowed to cross the Corniche road. A few tourists ready their cameras and camcorders, but police scream at them to put them away. You don’t take pictures of the Saudi Royal Family.
The cavalcade is led by police cars, then red 4 x 4’s two abreast, a stream of 10 to 20 Mercedes Benz cars all full of dignitaries, then more 4 x 4’s. armoured cars with gun crews, all kitted up, more 4 x 4’s and a few larger Mercedes cars. The tail of the cavalcade is made up of more gun crews, armed jeeps, ambulances and more police cars. The poor police cars must feel so inferior!
Having sat in the café, had coffee, lunch and numerous cups of tea, I have become a safe draw for all the tourists passing by. I mean if there is a European sitting at the open air café so it must be safe. All through the day they come and go in small hordes. Dropped off by the tour guides/coaches, they visit the Souq and then recover in the café waiting for their coach. Not that the food and drink is anything special, but a great place to watch the people from.
Last time here I stopped at the neighbouring café, the waiters hailing the punters with their own repartee. “Best tea in Muscat, fruit juice better than Starbucks”. You can’t help but sit down.
The old man that hassles the tourists for cigarettes or the odd Rhial is screaming at one of the waiters in the neighbouring café for attempting to move him on. For someone so slight he has a mean temper, looking like he’s going to hit someone. All the tourists at the tables praying, “Please don’t come to my table”. A quick Kayf Halek/hello how are you…and the odd change would have appeased him and he would have moved on.
The coaches give the occupants about 2 hours to get round the souq and check out Muttrah and then they are whisked away again. Each of the tour guides has a plastic paddle with a number which he waves high and like sheep all those with the badge number stuck on their shirt or top follow.
During the period of the imminent cavalcade the coaches had only a few minutes to fill up, so when the stragglers hadn’t made it the coach was off with tour guides left waiting for the losers. This was a spectacle that was just so amusing.
I have just experienced the strangest Christmas dinner/buffet at the Hotel. From seafood salad with carrots and oranges, and a touch of Tajin to the full roast turkey. The pinnacle is the swiss roll covered in chocolate called the “Yule Log”. Classic.
James Brown has died today.