Last day out in the country with the car, so its best to make the most of it. The intention is to get round Nizwa again, Al Hamra, Wadi Ghul, Jebel Shams and Bahla.
Nizwa is alive and buzzing, being the old capital and its location. Many people travel in from the villages and neighbouring towns for its services. On the outskirts is a military base, university, sports complex and a number of 2/3 star hotels, but looking at them you would be hard pressed to get me in one.
The town sits out on the plain on what looks like a dried up riverbed. This is in fact the dried Wadi where only ten years ago there were masses of floods. The water reaching the main road bridge which sits three to four metres above the road bed. Cars and trucks park in this when attending the markets and each day is market day. The way that the markets work is to have similar products all in the same vicinity, so all the fruit and vegetable is in one area, the meat souq in another. Nizwa has rebuilt the souqs, some with covered areas. Some more open with counters and obvious stores and then there is the goat souq.
Trying to remember the five pillars of Islam. Prayer, Fasting, Haj pilgrimage, maintaining the faith; oh yes and the charity to the poor. Looking at some of the farmers at the souq and their meagre offerings you’d think they need that charity now. But they are proud people and at this time of the year their crops and animals are in excellent condition.
It is late by the time I get into Nizwa just gone 10.00, but still it’s a hive of activity. The parking is even quite organised, although there is no single person orchestrating the organisation. Saloon cars, pick up trucks, small cattle trucks and 4 x 4’s in their invisible areas. The greatest profusion of tourists to date is around this area, all with their extremely expensive cameras – most with zoom lenses so they can capture intimate private moments at a distance. This is what pits me off the most as they treat this like a cattle show snapping images from a distance and disappearing. Some adventure into the throng of the goat souq, where they have a guide, but keep such distance from the activity.
The souq is an open area with cattle tied around the edges and a central raised podium to witness the proceedings. The owners of the animals take each one on inspections by walking counter clockwise and inviting tenders from the buyers. Mostly goats are being paraded; fairly placid they seem to do each as the owner requires. No clever harness, just a rough twine around the necks. The small cattle and it is relatively small in comparison to ours back home, are tied, in some cases knobbled at the knees. This stops them moving and is the norm for controlling camels, but never seen it on cattle. At complete opposite corners is the souq and two rather large bulls – each have their horns tied facing a tree. It looks cruel but this is how life is and you can’t get all emotional. One man’s animal is another man’s meal and some of these will be bought for their food value.
Beyond the goat souq is the vegetable souq, but little is happening. It’s all under cover to remain cool and the piles of vegetables vary from garlic to limes. Always piled high.
There are three of the tourist 4 x 4’s parked up on the pavement outside the fort and initially I think I missed an opportunity to park there too, but later I am relieved to see that they have all been issued with parking tickets – after all it messes up the photo’s of the fort.
Back in the Majan Hotel it’s quiet tonight as it’s Thursday so there are no lively drinking parties going on in the bar or tomorrow. It’s just been so manic in the evenings here with so many well dressed Omanis heading into the hotel to use the bar.
The fort is relatively quiet and is easily accessible with no queues or trying to get round bunches of camera wielding Germans. There are no Japanese here yet, or noticed any in Oman total.
Again the fort is roughly square with the main complex in one of the corners. It rises about 3 stories and then a top has a round tower with access to the roof. From here the view of Nizwa is outstanding, but now it’s midday, the light is too bright and the buildings around are paled with the intensity of the sun. The Mosque dome is lower at this point and it needs a little further repair. The minet and the dome are in the foreground of the amazing red of the Jebel range beyond them
I had always presumed that a palm date was a date but there are 40 different varieties here alone in Nizwa, some depending on season differ in their sugar content. To date (sic) I haven’t found a bad one yet.
Contemplating where else I wish to visit I head out to the furthest point to start the trip back to Muscat, interspersed with breaks and gaps in the journey.
Jabrin Castle is the furthest and here its easy to find as the signs indicate its 1 km off the main road. Just to the right before the castle is a new development of pristine houses behind high walls with palms and other trees. Set back 200 yards from the road it’s the equivalent of a new housing estate and turns out to be built for the occupants who lived around the castle. When they redeveloped the castle these properties were destroyed. What fate for those around the fort at Sumail?
Square, four corners, two watchtowers and a large fortification at one corner sums up most of the forts. This is not untypical.
I came through Bahla to get here and the main fort/castle is being redeveloped on a monumental scale, but it is one of the largest in Oman. These forts protected the head of the Wadi’s where the locals lived, grew crops and were affiliated with the fort in one way or another. Travelling back on this road the entrance to Bahla is far more impressive as the fort sits high on the upper ground. In fact its quite imposing. Not sure when it will be finished but in total all these forts and castles will be quite a draw for tourists.
The big adventure is to attempt to discover and get some way up Jebel Shams, which at it’s height is 3,048 metres, although you can only drive up to 2,000 metres in a 4 x 4 as the road is more a rough mountainous track.
Before this I spot signs for the Al Hoti caves which seem to have a good reputation for interest in this area,
The road is new and signed very well all the way to a resplendent new visitors centre. Here there is an electric powered train to take you across the Wadi and into a man made tunnel where the tram terminates and disgorges its occupants. It’s just before 1pm and I suppose I am appreciative that its still open. For each tram party there is a guide to take us through the caves. The cave is organised with concrete/metal walkways throughout and railings to ensure that we keep within the walkway. Not as impressive as the cave at Majorca but still impressive. Interestingly its completely dry with no water or even drips coming off the roof, but it hasn’t rained for weeks now.
Lower in the depths of the cave is a lake with blind fish which is at points 30 metres deep and extends through to another cave on the other side of the mountains. The small party we are in is made up of an American family with two teenage daughters, an Indian family with two sons and a daughter, and German couple and an Omani couple. The Indian gent is truly knowledgeable and shows up the ignorance of the Americans “How does the stalag thingy grow”. Too much. The best comment was when the Indian family declared that they lived in Sharjah and one of the Americans admitted to being there two years ago. “What’s it like now”? asked the American and in complete innocence the reply came “Much better now”. Just perfect.
From Al Hoti the sign for Jebel Shams reads 45 kms. Through Al Hamra the signs stop. If I can’t find the sign I will have to get back to Bahla to try again. I get lucky and at the Shell Petrol Station it seems that I am on the right road. Again this road is in good condition and for the next 10 kms leads me to Wadi Ghul. The new village sits one side of the Wadi and the old; which is built into the mountains and now desolate is on the opposite bank.
The road now is made of grey stone and the thrill of opening up the throttle and creating a huge dust storm is too much to offer.
Four little ragged urchins are at the side of this road and they manage to sell me four strange knitted chords from goat wool. Still not sure what they are for.
The road is now 27 kms to Jebel Shams from here and occasionally it becomes a proper surfaced road. Then it’s a mix of grey stony road eventually leading to a just bearable passing dirt track, that’s after 5kms of the harshest u bends that need to be taken in 1st to get round, but also to climb the steep gradient. At some points the track leaves me with an empty pit in my stomach, as I can’t believe how tortuous and dangerous this is. The danger of falling rocks is evident with fresh falls occasionally and the drop at some points looks bottomless – Where I chance upon a vehicle coming down my heart skips a beat in momentary panic as one mistake will surely send me over the edge.
The awe of these mountains and the road/track is unquestionable, one of the most amazing sights or experiences I have had the pleasure of. In the distance forward and back is the snaking route of the track. Far ahead is the billowing mass of a dusty cloud as another vehicle attempts this climb. From this distance its too difficult to judge what type of vehicle it may be, but eventually I discover it’s a construction truck – how the hell will I get past that. The co-driver of the truck spots me out of his window as he turns to climb and then the truck pulls over with the right hand side tyres hanging on the edge of a steep graded climb to let me pass. They must know this route like the back of their hands to be so confident of just stopping.
I end up at the RAFO, Royal Air Force Oman, Radar Station, almost as far as I can drive. “Trespasses will be shot – no need for questioning” reads the sign in Arabic and English by the gates that cross the track.
Stopping here I break for a while having crackers and a drink and stretching my legs.
Now being late afternoon the light plays havoc on the mountains, making strange patterns and colours, which I would not have seen when the sun was high.
Give it a few more years and the tourists will be up here in their droves – even the friendly guy in the Hotel Office has admitted there is a shortage of 4 x 4’s for the tourists.
I have to admit I have fallen in love with this country. Maybe its naivety of the whole developing country or that I have never come across so many friendly people.
I have to come back again soon.