Again, it is a long road trip and up at 6am and away by 7, we are on the road all day. We stop for a brief break at a gas station and then on to our first site.
This is a granary which is protected by the high cliffs around and a number of small village houses. There is a better example of the olive oil presses with a single grinding stone and two huge presses made of large palm tree trunks. Somehow we missed paying the obligatory photograph dinars but that was probably as the caretaker arrived late and we were through and out before we had a chance. From here we stop for tomatoes to dress the salads that we are having for the lunch along the desert road.
The guides are probably suffering a little today as Ramadan has started. They were up early before 5 am and had breakfast and prayers before the sun rose. The level of activity that they accomplish in a day is crazy considering that they partake of no food, coffee, water and cigarettes during the day-light hours.
The teachings of Islam are based on the five pillars, sometimes represented by the hand, Ramadan, Prayer, Hajj-pilgrimage, honesty and charity. Mohammed Tabila explains the difference between Shia and Sunni and for the first time its clear to me Shia’s are those that you see beating themselves till bloody as sufferance to what they did to the Prophet Ali. Not believing he was a prophet they killed him and so during Ramadan they collect and punish themselves.
I am about two days behind with this journal and so am sitting on the coach while the rest visit the mosque and mausoleum. Have to catch up before I lose the facts.
The desert journey is tedious with just sand, scrub and pylons to see. However we were fortunate to get a break when ahead could be seen camels crossing the road. These were all mares with one big black male watching over them as they crossed. Each herd has one male and a number of females and only when the male is challenged and beaten does he relinquish his place. Then he either becomes a solitary beast or meat for the table.
Onwards towards the Garrian pass where we stop near the summit to visit one of the Troglodyte houses which are built into the ground. It’s hard to describe the house. Imagine a square hole in the ground that’s about 5m x 5m and goes down to a depth of 7m. The four facings of the square have doors to other rooms. In a hole lived a hobbit springs to mind.
The entry to the house is from a walk down and through an opening in the cliff. Although this can be hidden it’s pretty evident today. Through the entrance and down a sloping alley you pass until popping out at the base of the hole. In the centre is a garden for a few plants and a sunken hole, which allows any rain water to soak away. Entry to the rooms through one of the doors reveals a large 20 x 20 room cut into the rock and sand.
The interesting part of construction is that they pick a spot and start filling it with water. As the sand softens they dig out the slushy sand and continue down until the level that they are happy with. The group seemed to love this house until a group of pushy Belgium’s arrive.
Back on the coach we head off down the main part of the Garrian pass chasing the lorry and trailer with camels off to market. We had spotted this great photo opportunity earlier and missed it. This time I miss it again as I am snoozing. Apart from the breaks it has become a twelve and a half hour coach journey from Ghadames to Zlitern. Somehow I am not expecting the equivalent of the Bab Africa Hotel and my expectations are matched. It’s quite a dingy hotel from the time warped late 70s in brown and gold’s. The lift has not worked for years so naturally they put us on the 4th floor. The room reminds me of the one in Samarqand run by the local government. The furniture is brown, worn and chipped with a Westinghouse conditioning unit from the 70s as well.
The windows overlook a palm grove with trees reaching 70 – 80 feet and full of golden dates awaiting harvest.
We eat in the hotel that evening to, no choice, chicken, rice and soup. It’s the staple meal here for tourists if it’s not camel meat.