What an unearthly time to get up. I have still got to walk down to the Hotel Lapud for the privilege of an Atlas bus picking me up to go to Cilipi. We are down before we’re up and within minutes en route to Zagreb via Croatia Airlines bus. So simple, the bus waits for any incoming flight. I think I have sussed out that the trams go from the terminal (bus) so once I have got a ticket and explained to a few other travellers what to do I take the No. 6 tram to the centre of Zagreb. The rain is coming down like stair rods and there is no way to avoid getting wet as I head for the tram.
It looked like it was going to be a miserable day but the sun is out and it is baking, almost airless as there is no sea breeze. I need a coffee before I can go anywhere as it is still only 9:30, and the loo. Somehow it is a damn good excuse for a coffee as the toilets are always clean.
Around St. Marks up in Kaptol area there are a lot of policemen and officials and loads of people walking around with mini Croatian flags. I now have one of these. The church which is in the square is surrounded by four large official Croatian buildings. At a later point from the tower I witness a massive motorcade leaving the area. The traffic has come to a complete standstill.
I have walked past a legless beggar who I suppose lost them in a landmine or something, anyway a few Kn won’t go amiss. Around this corner there is a collection of predominantly Catholic women all repeating some sort of prayer. This is a public area with a pedestrian lane running through this little tunnel. The shrine is built into the tunnel and there must be 200worshippers altogether. It sounds like they are repeating to a voice recording as the tempo doesn’t change and I cannot see any church official.
What is Tolkein’s house doing at the tope of the hill almost overlooking the city. Orks, trolls, etc. not allowed. Beats me anyway. When I enquire whether this café, pub is in fact the ‘prancing pony’ I get a dubious look. I have noticed a lot of Goths and some rather dark graffiti over the city. A lot of graffiti, especially the road from the bus terminal to the central station, the route the tram took. A small entrance to a Museum indicates a view of the city for 5Kn. After climbing 79 steps I am welcomed by the attendant that informs this is where the noon cannon is fired from each day and as it is 11:30 I will not have long to wait. Climbing up a further 20 odd steps it opens out on to a platform whereupon you can see all round the city right up to the mountains where I can make out a fortification of some sorts. Turns out to be Medregrad. A few other people come out but do not have the will to stay to noon.
I jumped, it was so bloody loud and most tourists in the vicinity looked like they had a bit of a shock. A real shell in this 76mm cannon would travel about 7kms. It is all a bit ominous this firing each day, even if it is to get the city to synchronise the bells so they all ring at once. The tower is Kula Lotrscak and it is worth the trip even just for the views. Directly below is a promenade and a funicular railway linking the main street with the old town port.
You can’t help but get a little flippant after you have done a few more churches and cathedrals.
I discover the market which again is a real market with people having bought in their produce from their gardens or smallholdings. In the bright sunlight it gives an incredible vibrant mass of colours. The man with the squashes has by far the best stall and I award him with the Golden Rosette for display and colour. A couple of Kns keeps the old geezer happy.
Aah a few lucky souvenirs for You know who as I have got her only one snowy which is a little poor in standard which is surprising for Dubrovnik. A couple of tacky religious icons, that I hope will not offend, will be joining the ‘altar’ in the flat.
I’m just having a quiet coffee remembering to get Isabelle a few sugars when the heavens open. The main Jelaćicá square becomes a pool and people are running for cover.
Time to head for the airport, leave Zagreb and its rain, after all I will only get soaked wandering around. Not a city that I could stay in for more than a day so that’s a tick in the box on that one.