The smog is the worst to date and I am sure it impacts everyone. In the lounge last night I heard four or five people coughing. I too have that all too familiar feeling with the tightening of the chest.
The Temple of Heaven is the south east of the city, surrounded by parks and like all Beijing attractions it’s accessible by the third ring road. As the city expands the network grows. Although there isn’t a first ring road, that’s probably Tiananmen Square, the second ring radiates out and so on. The hotel is on the second ring and so is the subway loop. Now they are building a sixth ring road, after that they’ll be out by the great wall.
There are many visitors to the temples today, in buses, coaches, cabs and rickshaws and they are disgorged at the main south entrance. For 58 RMB that’s £4, a through ticket will allow access to all parts. The temples are spread through beautiful parks and the central strip from the south gate to the north gate is meticulously groomed. I have noticed two groups of boys numbering 20 odd and in their late teens – they are on an organised trip of some kind. Their uniform is a smart black suit, with mandarin colours and all are smartly dressed in these, apart from the footwear.
Through the initial gates the crowds swarm towards the circular mound altar which is a single dome shaped stone with rhinestones surrounding it, followed by a further ring and so on until the last ring, the ninth one from the raised altar stone is the ……… of the altar. Don’t ask me but everyone wants their picture taken whilst atop of the central stone, which is literally only 4/5” raised at its centre.
Then to the imperial vault of heaven where offerings to the heavens were made for a good harvest. All the temples to date have been rectangular but this is round, with a conical hat shaped roof. Surrounding this courtyard with its round vaulted temple is a semi-circular 15’ high wall called the echo wall. A sound transmitted at one end resonates round to the other. I shout hello mum and a retort comes back ‘hello dad’ amusing to me and who was at the other end.
From the conical shaped temple on the other side of the wall is a bridge/causeway for about half a kilometre leading to the larger temple. Either side of this raised causeway are the parks.
To the left I can hear some music and although its feint I head off to discover that there is a pair of musicians practising; one singing and accompanied by a Chinese flute. It’s a very fresh sound. In amongst the area of the gate are two groups of people playing keeping up but not with a ball. They are using some weighted flat disc with feathers. It looks like a psychedelic badminton shuttle. Further on into the park there’s the sound of a Chinese opera. Well that’s what it sounded like. A group of five, two women and three men are all singing from song sheets in unison. More is the pity that they aren’t doing this by the echo wall. I have now exiled the north gate having visited the remaining parts of the temple and walking west I catch a taxi to Chongwen district.
After a little retail therapy I spot two of the ‘criminal underworld’ that fleeced me, they are about to enter the teahouse with another unsuspecting punter. I manage to get to him and warn him. Their faces are priceless and yes I may have been done but they have just lost the afternoon’s work. They scuttled off so quickly. It’s been a real delight to the day.
I decide to get a couple of cushion covers made up in some fabric I spotted. These can be ready in an hour and total charge is 200 rmb £14 to you and me.
Tonight I am off to the Quanjude, the famous Beijing Duck Restaurant. As the majority of people eat just after five the hotel recommends that I get there early.
Luckily I do as I get the last available table I can see. The place is in the same district Chongwen, with bright red frontage and a yellow comic character of a duck outside. Its like entering some Disney adventure. The reception team are all elegantly dressed in red flowing dresses and when the seating is full they take your details and then you sit in a waiting area. Am I glad I got here early. The half duck I ordered is brought out on a trolley by a chef who slices the duck into small pieces, so much better than that smash it all up approach in most Chinese restaurants. Then the waitress demonstrates how to make up the pancake roll using just chopsticks. Such a wizard!